"If the island sinks, I will sink with it," Delfino Davies declares, his smile unwavering.
As he meticulously sweeps the floor of the small museum he manages that preserves the history of his community in Panama, the Guna, a profound hush envelops the space.
Reflecting on the changes, Delfino shares, "Before, you could hear children shouting, music permeating the air, neighbors exchanging words, but now all the familiar sounds have faded."
The community resides on the diminutive, vulnerable island of Gardi Sugdub, which is the first in Panama to undergo relocation due to climate change.
Facing an "imminent risk" from escalating sea levels, which experts predict will make the island uninhabitable by 2050, most residents departed the congested island last June for orderly prefabricated homes on the mainland.
While some view the relocation as a positive blueprint for other imperiled communities globally, it has nonetheless splintered the Guna community.
In Delfino's words, "My father, my brother, my sisters-in-law, and my friends have left," he continues, "Sometimes, the children of families who remained weep, wondering where their friends have gone."
As deserted houses line the island, approximately 1,000 individuals departed, while about 100 opted to stay, some due to insufficient space in the new settlement. Others, like Delfino, harbor doubts regarding the threat of climate change or simply are unwilling to depart.
Expressing his desire to remain close to the ocean where he can fish, Delfino emphasizes, "The people that lose their tradition lose their soul. The essence of our culture is on the islands."
The Guna have inhabited Gardi Sugdub since the 19th Century, and on other islands in the archipelago off Panama's northern coast for even longer, having escaped mainland threats such as Spanish conquest and internal conflicts.
Known for their ornate "molas" attire, the Guna community now occupies over 40 islands in the region, with experts warning that most, if not all, will be submerged by the end of the century due to rising sea levels induced by climate change.
At Gardi Sugdub, inundations during the rainy season seep into homes, reaching beneath the hammocks where families slumber, underscoring the island's vulnerability in the face of environmental shifts.
Despite discussions on relocation beginning over a decade ago primarily due to overcrowding rather than climate change, the reality of rising tides accelerated the need for swift action.
Magdalena Martínez, reflecting on the relentless encroachment of tides, recalls, "Every year, we saw the tides were higher. We couldn't cook on our stoves, and it was always flooded... so we said 'we have to get out of here'."
Transitioning to the newly constructed community of Isberyala, Magdalena, alongside her granddaughter Bianca, and her loyal dog, embraces the fresh start, relishing the opportunity to cultivate her own crops in the spacious new surroundings.
Despite the comforts of Isberyala compared to the island, challenges persist, including intermittent water supply and a lack of healthcare facilities, leaving residents to navigate both gratitude for improved living conditions and nostalgia for the island life they left behind.