Upon my arrival in the eastern city of Goma in the Democratic Republic of Congo, the ambiance seemed normal despite the underlying conflict. The bustling streets near the Rwandan border bustled with activity: commuters hurrying to work, street vendors selling goods, and taxi drivers vying for customers.
However, it soon became evident that there was a new authority in charge when I encountered a checkpoint manned by armed fighters from the M23 rebel group. Just a week prior, the rebels had seized control of Goma, resulting in a violent clash with the Congolese army and its allies, leading to significant casualties as reported by the UN and the Congolese government.
The rebels, unopposed, permitted us to venture into the city, which bore the scars of recent conflict. Within one of the few hospitals treating the wounded, I encountered harrowing scenes of suffering. Dr. Nathaniel Cirho, injured in an air raid, shared the tragic outcome of his neighbor’s surgery with a heavy heart.
Meeting individuals like a courageous woman who had extracted a bullet from her own arm following a skirmish and had been subsequently escorted to the hospital by M23 fighters, shed light on the resilience amidst the chaos.
The overwhelmed healthcare facilities attested to the urgent need for medical attention, with doctors struggling to cope with the increasing influx of patients, each bearing the physical toll of war. The prevalence of sexual violence highlighted the atrocities committed in this conflict, echoing the concerns raised by the UN.
Despite the relative calm post-conflict, the city's recovery was slow. Some businesses reopened cautiously, while uncertainty lingered, compounded by the looming presence of the M23 rebels and the absence of an active Congolese military presence.
Local perspectives reflected a resigned acceptance of the rebels' control, with traders facing challenges in resuming cross-border commerce. The narrative captured a city torn by conflict and uncertainty, providing a somber glimpse into the potential future should the M23 advance further.
As M23 sets its sights on further conquests, the resilient spirit of the Congolese people in Goma serves as a poignant reminder of the human cost of conflict in the region.